Weihsien internment camp, North China, September 1943,
eleven months into Lilla's imprisonment

THE NEW CAMP spread out in front of Lilla in row after row of long, thin, grey huts as far as she could see. Here and there, the single- storey skyline of this former missionary compound was punctuated by a taller building hovering over the tips of the low trees dotted along the alleyways and open spaces between the buildings. The pictures drawn by inmates show that each block was peppered with a row of door- and window-shaped holes, like a long line of animal stalls. A series of beams protruded out of the front of each row like the side of a cage that had been temporarily lifted to let the creatures out. Clothes flapped from the wooden poles. A few greying sheets and towels seemed to skip just clear of the quagmire that must have been oozing like a lava flow through every gap the buildings allowed. `The monsoon rains were late that year,' writes Pamela Masters, a teenager who had gone straight into Weihsien from Tientsin, with her parents and two elder sisters. The rains usually came in August, but when Lilla arrived in September the camp pathways were still inundated, the compound a sticky sea of mud.

The mud stank. The stench must have hit the back of Lilla's nostrils and the top of her throat as her bus rolled in through the camp gates. It was a reek of `rotting human excrement', writes Masters. Of refuse and sewage. Of the discarded items that life leaves behind — which, in a way, was what the two-thousand-odd inmates of Weihsien, the remnants of the northern treaty-porters, were. The elderly and schoolchildren. Taipans and civil servants. Prostitutes and thieves. An entire jazz band from Tientsin.

British, Americans, Canadians, South Africans, Dutch, Belgians, Norwegians, Greeks, Cubans, Filipinos, Jewish Palestinians, Iranians, Uruguayans, Panamanians, a lone Indian and even one German — a wife who had decided to follow her American husband and daughter into the camp. The people whose national governments had simply abandoned them to their fate. They had all been swept up in the great river of mud that was this war. Bundled together, rained on and left to rot at the far end of the world, now distinguished only by the identification badges that they `had to wear at all times', writes Murray, who, in an attempt to render this vast new camp less frightening to her youngest daughter, stitched a badge on her doll too.

Lilla and Casey were in either block twenty or block eight. The only record of who was where in Weihsien is a column of numbers jotted alongside a camp census typed up at the end of June 1944. The smudged room numbers were inserted after this, but nobody now knows when, or whether the internees were in those rooms for a night, a week or a year. And what those numbers tell me is that, at some stage during their imprisonment, Lilla and Casey spent at least one night apart. Lilla in block twenty, room three, and Casey in block eight, room five. As a couple of pages of prisoners' names are missing, I don't know whether they were alone in these rooms, or temporarily sharing with the husband and wife of another couple. The elderly men in block eight perhaps because it was near the men's showers and latrines, and the women in block twenty. Or, I have been told, Casey may have been ill enough to need nursing care for a while. As there was only one ward in the hospital and many nurses — nursing being one of the few professions open to women back then — an interned nurse would move in with a patient, the rest of the patient's family moving out to make room for her for as long as necessary. I don't think it can have been that long. Casey may have been weakened by interrogation and imprisonment, but he would still make several journeys across the world in the years to come.

In any case, although at first sight the number of buildings in the camp made it appear large — there were sixty-odd buildings in total — at just a couple of hundred yards square, it was all too compact a space for two thousand people to eat, wash, work and sleep in. And blocks eight and twenty were both off a black cinder pathway in the north-western corner of the camp known as Tin-Pan Alley or Rocky Road, only a few yards away from each other.

The compound had a few large buildings containing old classrooms that were now being used as dormitories for the single men and women in the camp. The former missionaries' houses — the most comfortable places there — had been taken over by the Japanese. The remainder, and the majority, of the camp's accommodation consisted of those long, thin, grey huts that had been built as rows of single cells to house individual Chinese missionary students. Even before they had been abandoned, looted and occupied first by Chinese soldiers and then by the Japanese, they had been Spartan. Now they were miserable, and each had to house at best just a married couple but often a family of four. The cells measured just nine by twelve feet — barely enough room to cram three mattresses on to the floor. The door and one window stood at the east-facing front, and there was a tiny opening for ventilation at the back. The rooms had all been badly neglected,' writes Masters, `the white plastered walls were peeling and in need of repair, and the only electrical fixture was a ceiling lamp, hanging from a frayed cord.' And `there was no furniture', points out Murray, 'just a shelf on the wall'.

It was Lilla's greatest domestic challenge yet. Less hospitable — and potentially hotter — than the Indian postings in which she had sweltered. Damper than the 'rat-palace' in Kashmir. Less personal than Mrs Bridges' lodgings in Calcutta — and certainly smaller. And most galling of all, a stay that each day she must have hoped to see the end of. She had already been locked up for a year. Who was to say that she wouldn't be locked up for another, or more — two, three, four or ten years, twenty even? If she survived that long. Perhaps like murderers or other penitentiary lifers, she and Casey would die in prison.

Nonetheless, I can imagine Lilla doing her best to make their cell a home. She starts with the beds. Even the height of a mattress would at least keep them a few inches away from the cockroaches that hopped around the floor at night, occasionally landing on their faces. And from the rats that left their greasy slithers along the bottom of the walls, `of which there were a number of varieties' — `providing the noisiest nighttime entertainment by far'. She pulls some slightly crumpled embroidered linen out of their cases. After a year in camp, it isn't as fresh as it had been when she left home. Still, it is something with which to make their beds. Next she slides out the photographs and prints that she had taken from her home. Using pins, she tries to stick them on the walls. Some fall back down immediately, bringing slabs of plaster with them and exposing the grey brick. With a great deal of huffing and puffing, she and Casey manage to shunt their cases into the empty corner of their room and arrange them to make a table and chairs, of sorts. Lilla sets out a couple of tiny painted china pots at one end, spreads a small embroidered tablecloth over the middle of the trunk. Finally, she pins up a couple of tea towels over the front window Something to close them off from the camp outside and its two thousand pairs of eyes.

That's one of the few things Lilla used to mention when she talked about the camp. That she had remembered to pack tea towels. And used them for curtains. The one aspect of the room that would have defeated her was the light bulb dangling from the ceiling. It hung there, ugly, bare, in the centre of the tiny room, no doubt irritating her every time it caught her eye. Making her think that she ought to have brought a lampshade too.

Still, at last she and Casey had somewhere to themselves. And a precious door with which to shut out the world outside. And here in Weihsien, the world outside their little space needed much more shutting out than it had in Chefoo. Instead of looking out on the familiar, still eerily beautiful ghost town of Chefoo that might any day spring back to life, Lilla now found herself looking out at a painfully brave new world.

Every aspect of the inmates' lives in Weihsien was ordered by layer upon layer of ruthlessly efficient committees — `everything was so much more sophisticated than at little Temple Hill', comments Cliff. These had been set up by the first prisoners to arrive at Weihsien, on the instructions of the Japanese, and by the time Lilla and the rest of the Chefoo contingent arrived, they were a well-established hierarchy committed to the principles of `mucking in' and `pulling your weight' to an almost authoritarian extent. There was a supplies committee that rationed out food. There was an education committee in charge of an almost terrifyingly high standard of prisoners' learning programmes that ranged from biochemistry for children to Russian for adults and athletics taught by the Olympic 400-metre champion Eric Liddell, who had been a missionary in Tientsin. A quarters committee distributed the prisoners among the cells and dormitory places as it saw fit. A discipline committee both decided upon and enforced the laws of the camp. And a labour committee allocated the camp's mainly manual jobs according to each prisoner's fitness and experience. Taipans and thieves alike were sent to clean the latrines, pump water for cooking and showers, eke meals for hundreds out of limited rations in the three camp kitchens and keep the roofs on the decaying buildings.

The committees ran an extraordinary range of camp facilities. These included camp shops offering shoe-mending, watch repairs, clothes-mending, book-binding, a barber and a general exchange known as the White Elephant. There was even a financial service provided by the Tsingtao Swiss consul, a Mr Eggar. Whenever he managed to visit Weihsien, he would distribute Red Cross `comfort money' to prisoners in exchange for IOUs that would have to be redeemed at the end of the war. There was a fully functioning camp hospital, although with limited equipment and supplies. Urgent cases obviously took priority but prisoners with other medical needs found that these could be satisfied, too. Some female prisoners even chose to have hysterectomies there.

And there was an impressive list of camp entertainments. Baseball and softball matches, cricket matches, soccer matches, rugby, touch football, band practices, plays and musical revues were all put together to take up as much of the prisoners' time as possible. The whole committee system seems to have been designed to hypnotize the prisoners with such an array of activities and duties that their minds had no time to wander to what might be happening outside.

It worked. Weihsien was its own little metropolis. A utopia of prison camps. `With such centralized organization, our community began to show the first signs of a dawning civilization,' wrote Langdon Gilkey, who was in his early twenties and had been teaching at Yenching University. The committees admirably kept the prisoners alive and more or less healthy and sane. They did the best job they could possibly do. The only thing they could possibly do.

But in doing so they set up a structure that would enable the Japanese to keep them there for a very long time indeed. And, despite the committees' sophisticated arrangements for education and entertainment, the basic facilities the Japanese provided for the prisoners at Weihsien were appalling. Each day began with a long wait at the latrines. As there were only about a couple of dozen lavatories for a camp population of over fifteen hundred, `the queues for this unavoidable aspect of life were endless'. And so many were continually out of order that there was, on average, only one lavatory for every hundred prisoners. To flush them, each prisoner had to take in their own tin can of slop water from the earthenware jars that stood outside the door. Nor was there any paper. The stench that assailed our Western nostrils almost drove us back.' And every able-bodied woman in the camp — Lilla doubtless included — took her turn at cleaning the ladies' latrines for a week at a time.

Showering was even more open than dormitory life in the Chefoo camp. `There were no cubicles, just open stalls,' writes Masters, who `couldn't get used to the complete lack of privacy'. Water was pumped through the showerheads by a male prisoner sweating and grunting away on the other side of the wall.

Joan Ward explained to me that, early on, it became clear there were two sorts of people in the camp. Those who let themselves go and `certain people who made an effort to continue to look nice'. Lilla she remembers as being one of the latter. Just as she would have battled through the loss of dignity as she cleaned the latrines, Lilla must have closed her eyes, taken a deep breath to prepare herself for the freezing water, and shut her ears to the grunts.

For the first few months at Weihsien, Lilla didn't go too hungry The cartloads of supplies that rolled into the camp still contained green vegetables, potatoes and meat. But the meat was so packed with sinew and gristle that only a small proportion could be eaten.

Like the committees, the three camp kitchens were fanatically well run by the camp oligarchy. Any meat that arrived was pulled off the carts and sent to the two camp butchers, who brushed off any larvae — it had travelled unrefrigerated from a slaughterhouse thirty miles away — and in summer boiled it overnight as the only way of stopping it deteriorating further. The vegetables were sent directly to each kitchen, where a team of fifteen to twenty women spent the day peeling and chopping. At five o'clock each morning two cooks and five kitchen helpers turned up to start breakfast. After they had prepared the cereal and tea, they set to work on lunch. The great challenge was to try to serve a meal other than stew or `dry — that is put on a plate rather than in a bowl'.

When the mealtime arrived, there was a team of women servers to ladle out the food to the queues of prisoners. A couple of elderly gentlemen monitored the rate at which food was distributed, making sure that there would be some for everyone. And they checked that no one came in twice. Finally, a team of washer-uppers cleaned up after each meal. Throughout the entire cooking process, a pair of storekeepers kept vigil over the quantities delivered and the quantities used — to try to make sure that as little as possible slipped into inmates' pockets instead of the communal pot.

Kitchen jobs were sought after —jobs kept you sane'. I have seen some drawings showing groups of women standing elbow to elbow around tubs and chopping boards, scrubbing and peeling vegetables. The drawings are simple, almost sketches, but you can still sense the camaraderie leaping out from the paper. Almost hear the banter. Stories of horse races and hunting around the treaty ports. Of dinner parties. Of sizzling meals of spicy Chinese food followed by English puddings. Of how they would cook the carrots if they were back there. Carrots coated in melted butter, thickened with flour and drowned in parsley.

Or carrots so fresh that they could be shredded into thread-thin curls and doused in mustard, oil and vinaigrette.

Lilla would have undoubtedly wangled her way on to a kitchen shift. I imagine her picking up a mouldy carrot, turning it round in her fingers, taking up the challenge of turning it into something edible while saving as much of it as she could. Slicing it into whichever shape the carrots were being sliced that day — a constant rotation of sticks, circles and cubes to give an impression of variety. At the end of the day, after hours standing, arms constantly moving as if she were swimming a marathon, keeping up her end of the conversation, Lilla must have felt exhausted. Looking forward to the next day's rest yet longing to return to the hubbub. Wishing her shift came round more often than the standard one day in three. And dreading the gaps in between.

On the days they weren't working, the prisoners stretched out the daily chores of living for as long as they could. After queuing at the showers and latrines, the internees took their water buckets to the communal pump, heaving the full ones back to their rooms. Then they'd head off to wait in line for a breakfast at which tea, while it was still available, was such a precious commodity that one person's sole job was to dry out used teabags and bang them back into shape. After breakfast, Lilla set about cleaning their tiny room, sending Casey out — for a walk, a chat, or simply out — and trying to scrub the black dirt and traces of insects out of every crevice she could find. As though, if she scrubbed hard enough, the walls of her cell might dissolve back into the wood panelling of her home in Chefoo.

Midmorning, the bell rang for roll-call. For the first few months that Lilla was at Weihsien, roll-call was a relaxed affair. The prisoners chatted, the guards made a show of counting. The arrival of Lilla and the other internees from Chefoo had pushed the numbers in the already packed camp to over two thousand. But within a couple of weeks, around four hundred Catholic clergy had been moved to an institution in Peking, and a couple of hundred Americans — including Martha Philips and Dr Glass's family — were repatriated in a prisoner exchange, taking the camp numbers back down to around fifteen hundred.

Cliff `noted that the figures chalked up on the blackboard in the guardroom had one day totalled 1,492 and the next day 1,518, and so on, with little effort to account for the discrepancies' — after all, no Western face could travel far in the Chinese countryside and, in any case, where would they go to? And after everyone had been more or less counted — occasionally a child's doll was mistaken for a baby and counted too — the camp transformed itself into a giant marketplace.

Private supplies of food, or home rations as they were called, were the be-all and end-all of camp life. There were a few prisoners — mainly missionaries whose Chinese-manned stations in China were still operating well enough to send them food, and knew where to send it to — who were receiving a steady supply. Steady enough for them to throw out tins that the mice or the rats or the cockroaches had found their way into. Cliff remembers finding one such tin with a rat in — `the rat was duly removed, the syrup was boiled for several hours over the stove, and then three of us spread it sumptuously on our bread for some weeks afterwards'.

And steady enough for them to have more than they wanted for themselves. Or things that they didn't want. Like cigarettes instead of jam or jam instead of cigarettes. And they were prepared to barter. Bartering `for life's daily needs' was a serious business inside the camp. Gladys McMullan Murray remembers exchanging her `best dress' for `a tin of sweet condensed milk'.

At the beginning, cash was still worth something too. People clung on to some savings in the belief that they might need them again soon when they went home. Or they'd sell things for money knowing that they could turn it back into something they wanted and needed more — soap, mosquito nets, things that were still coming into the camp. Or they used it to buy goods on the black market. `We sold all our belongings, bit by bit,' Gladys's son Jimmy told me.

The camp's black-market operation was run with the same precision as the kitchens and committees. Three Chinese, their bodies `blackened and greased', would slide through the outer electrified fence and pass boxes of eggs and crates of wine through the inner wire into the camp. Another black marketeer, a Mrs Kang, organized her small sons to help her `funnel a steady flow of eggs into a drainage tunnel that came in underneath the wall'.

Once the goods were in the camp, a group of former businessmen would quickly hide them behind a pile of loose bricks. Lookouts were posted in several directions. If one saw a Japanese guard approaching he would blow his nose ostentatiously and the black marketeers would hide. At one stage, Gilkey reckons, thirteen hundred eggs were coming through the walls each day — `an equivalent amount of jam, sugar and butter was there for the buying if one knew whom to see'.

For the first few weeks of their stay in the Weihsien camp, black-market eggs were Lilla and Casey's main source of home rations. A whole section of Lilla's recipe book is dedicated to eggs. Boiled eggs. Boiled eggs with mayonnaise. Boiled eggs with fried bacon and tomatoes. Baked eggs with cheese sauce. Poached eggs. Scrambled eggs with ham, with smoked fish, with mushrooms, with asparagus. Egg dishes, she wrote, are useful when unexpected visitors arrive.

Something turns in my stomach as I read this. Its poignancy, its hope, stops my breath. Unexpected visitors. Lilla was locked up in a prison camp. Nobody unexpected would be turning up that day, or the next, or the next. But just maybe, she was writing, maybe one day it won't be like this any more.

And piece by piece, Lilla must have sold almost everything she had to buy eggs. Her clothes, her lace, her embroidery, any tiny china pieces she had with her — if anyone wanted them. And her jewellery. Piece by piece, it went. Except for two items. Those diamond earrings. And the brooch that Ernie had given her. The one she'd torn the emeralds out of when she heard he had died.

And when she had finished washing and queuing and cleaning and bartering, Lilla would have pulled her typewriter out of its trunk and balanced it on the packing-case table in the corner of her damp cell. Wound a fresh ricepaper receipt, blank paper, American Red Cross paper, any paper she could find, into the machine and plunged her fingers on to the keys and into the world that the prisoners tried to remember as they worked in the kitchens. The world of seven-course meals and servants to run steaming baths. The world of food so fresh that you could hear the vegetables crunch as you broke them in two. The world where you had more than you could possibly want to eat. The world in which, long ago, somewhere between the London smog and the fresh Himalayan air, Lilla had learned she could reign supreme.

Perhaps, when she lent her pages out to other prisoners to read, she felt she was reigning supreme again. And that's what kept her head held high in the months to come.

Change came to the camp. Came soon. But not in the way that anyone had hoped. First the rains stopped. The mud dried out. And a couple of months after Lilla had arrived in Weihsien, the black market was brought to a shuddering close. Two Chinese black marketeers were caught and set before a Japanese firing squad. Another was electrocuted trying to slither through the fence. `His body was left to hang on the wires as a gruesome warning to others.'

Then the cold arrived. A bitter, biting cold that swept down from the north and froze the ground. Froze the water in its pails. Froze the inside of their cell. Froze the very marrow of the prisoners' bones. According to the UN War Crimes Commission, `only those who have experienced the winter cold of North China can appreciate its bitterness'. The prisoners piled on their clothes. Huddled under their blankets. Paced around the camp to keep the circulation going.

When Lilla sat at her typewriter, her fingers must have jarred stiff as ice blocks against the keys.